Sunday, 2 October 2011

Etro: Spring Summer 2012

For her Spring Summer 2012 collection, Veronica Etro revived her elegant touch, creating simple silhouettes and combining them with prints that reference the modern day jazz age. Inspired by Italian Futurist artist Fortunato Depero, Etro's prints have been diluted to a much simpler form, taking the shape of more rigid shapes and geometric designs in the style of Depero.

detail of 'the chair's party' cloth tarsia by fortunato depero, 1927

  "The Etro House paisley has been deconstructed until it resembles a broken collage. Stenciled florals and paisleys have a new modern look. An innovative new technique involves printing a fabric, then plisse pleating it, and then overprinting again to create burnt inky edges on the pleats."

Etro have taken on a strategic new way of thinking for the Spring Summer collection, cleverly placing prints on specific angles of the body so that it compliments the natural shape of the body, and creates curves and shadows in all the right places.
Soft, floating fabrics have been used to ensure a fluidity to the collection. Devoré, crêpe de Chine, silk and satin create flow and femininity whilst their abundance gives a weight to garments that spells sheer luxury. Intricate embroideries and tiled pailettes showcase just how exquisite Etro’s  workmanship truly is. The fabrics are rendered in sorbet shades like apricot, mint, raspberry, lemon, peach, cream and ice blue, this is juxtaposed against harsher 'pop' colors such as lime green or poppy orange, whilst a black block trim cuts the softness.

Dropped waists and entirely waistless dresses are the centerpiece of this collection, in true Italian tailoring style. Elegant low V fronts and halter necks, the dresses feature simple, yet unusual constructions. A curved hem is the ideal way of showing off lower layers of silk fringing or printed plissé.
Negative geometric space is used in conjunction with strategically placed cut outs to add a sportiness, while the sliced strips on the lower halves create an ethereal dancer style movement. The same loose, boxy shapes are applied to tops and skirts which appear to be one piece. Shorts are made in compact knits, worn with printed silk shirts, long cardigans, kimono coats or tuxedo jackets.

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