Friday, 18 February 2011

Maria Grachvogel AW11

Ok so my camera isn't great, but this was my first Fashion Week and I thought it best to leave the SLRs to the experts.
Maria Grachvogel isn't exactly a household name, which boggles the mind since she's been showing at London Fashion Week since 1994. Her designs are minimalist, with maximum impact. Today's show kicked off fashion week for London shortly after Paul Costelloe.
The setting; The Lancaster Ballroom at the newly refurbished Savoy hotel. The level of luxe was incomparable to anything I'd ever experienced, with an excited yet calm atmosphere, everyone was so eager to see what she had produced this season.
The models came out to a thunderous soundtrack, and the first thing I couldn't help but notice was their faces. Their brows were strong and dark, with matching lips, faces were ghostly white, and the hair was pinned into a top bun with poker straight sections sticking out of either side. (I saw one of the models walking round Covent Garden shortly after the show who hadn't changed her hair since, it looked amazing on the street.) Here are a few of my favourite looks:

The prints were stunning, sort of tribal inspired but made from all different shades of blue, green and grey, it reminded me of a dress I own from Zara:

 The coat above had the most inspiring tailoring, the curved collars and folds gave it a much softer appearance. The grey fabric used on the coat was also seen in the number of other looks that followed.

The plunging neck lines were so sleek and feminine, and in black too, very sophisticated.
The models looked so comfortable in the clothes, and although some were very teeny tiny, there were some sizes that also seemed bigger than usual. Maria says that she is happy to cater for everyone in the size department, with sizes ranging from UK 6 to 20 in her Sloane Street flagship.

I loved the surprise appearance of these two orange looks, one short and a longer dress for both daytime and evening. The fabric was draped so elegantly.

The lace was very classic, used only in small doses to retain that minimalist look. This blouse and dress demonstrate Maria's expert use of lace in this collection.
In my opinion these were the two most incredible evening gowns I've seen from Maria in all her time as a designer, (maybe not including her £250,000 diamond encrusted dress from past season) but the prints were so symmetrical and the draping was perfect from the knee down.

 Today I saw Maria Grachvogel, Prophetik and Christopher Beales, along with 1/3 of the exhibition space, and this collection is by far my favourite of Fashion Week day 1. Consider me a fan.

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