Monday, 21 February 2011

LFW: Fashion Mode

Fashion Mode mothers and nurtures emerging design talent, and drives them towards their potential. This season's show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout showcased three designers, Carlotta Actis Barone, Florian Jeyet and menswear designer James Hillman.
The first up was Florian Jayet, with a skeletal silhouette in creams, blacks and browns. Thick piping in spiral wound mounds created a strong, rigid exterior juxtaposed against tight fitting A-lines and angular outerwear. Skirts flared out with rolls and shaped fabric, whilst jacket shoulders were moulded to dizzy heights. Hair and accessories were present in the form of a metal skull cap, clasping at the forehead and rolling into the hair at the back.

 Next up was menswear designer James Hillman, his previous collection for SS11 was abundant in sheer whites and grey, now it seems he has moved on to the dark side, with this collection inspired by the distillation process of crude oil. Fabrics were a contrast between thick cashmere, and waxed cottons to create the 'wet look', but all was black. Collars were both extensively high or throat cuttingly low, and details included exposed silver zips at the crotch, ankles and shoulders. Leather panels hid on the backs of jackets and at the pockets of trousers, to modernise an otherwise formal suit set.

Carlotta Actis Barone was the third and final designer to show for Fashion Mode this season. Her usual stand on politics transpired into what looked like vein mapped bodysuits this time around, sitting streamlined underneath layers of winter fur and eccentric dresses beaming with tulle. Models' faces were alabaster white and radiant with sparkles. Hair was a vibrant ginger, backcombed into rough winter nests. The garments were very unique, but the models did look uncomfortable in the tight fitting jackets and dresses. The collection had a Christmastime feel with it's royal red and white fur trimmings, the final look presented showed a scarlet fishtail gown, complete with an oversized cream fur stole.

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