Friday, 28 January 2011

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Menswear

The personality of the clothes at McQueen this season were nothing short of the usual, but it was the models which first struck the right chord with critics. The radical selection of previously unseen males walked the catwalk, in one military inspired vision after another.
The males took to the runway in a sea of monochromatic fabrics with a punch of vibrant red every now and again as if to keep your attention. Not that our attention was anywhere else of course, Sarah Burton's inheritance of the McQueen lines is one gaze you cannot escape.
There was no distinction between sharp and soft, instead the two were combined to create a collection to cater for every style a man would wish for. Some jacket shoulders were angular, some rounded and some even with the seams split open. Collars were popped, rounded, blazer style and double breasted. The mix of styles in this collection is typical McQueen, and Burton replicates it so profusely. Not an inch of detail has been missed in this assembly.

After the bloodshed red in the first outfits came a surprising sunburnt yellow, and in these looks the reference to the 'quintessential English chap' became severely apparent.

Of course, what is Fall without a hint of shearling? Burton created some magnificent looks with cream shearling collars, in particular on the blue checked poncho, which was massively oversized, even for this guy. Overstatement is better than understatement, don't they say?

There were some highly tailored charcoal jackets and coats nestled well into the collection too, with light smears of red for continuity. The buttons on the coat below are magnificently placed. Turning the complexity of such a simple feature as a fastening is one of a designers' greatest traits. Take Westwood shirts for example. The legwear, a lightweight tracksuit type trouser is an odd mix with such a formal look, but I have to admit I quite enjoy it's appeal.

More checks were seen half way through the collection in the form of jackets and suit trousers, with blue and grey pastels.

The most innovative thing about the collection was undoubtedly the split seamed shoulders on the jackets. Such a bold move by Burton, but I haven't seen any close ups yet to work out what is actually underneath the splits, I am imagining that it's the lining of the jackets, which is a beautiful concept.

A couple more looks now which were seemingly compliments to the other looks. The McQueen brand always has and always will love to show off it's talents, and has done just that in this collection. I'll leave you with a few more of my favourites.

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